The Waters of Sveti Naum

While in Ohrid, an excursion to Sveti Naum should be considered essential, not so much for the monastery as for the natural area it inhabits. At the south side of the lake, you can take a boat trip to see natural springs bubbling up from the underground into a lagoon of startling clarity.

Lake Ohrid is fed entirely by the springs of Sveti Naum. A strong river of fresh, clear water flows constantly into the lake, providing Ohrid its famous turquoise tint. The water originates from Lake Prespa, on the other side of the mountains of the Galičica National Park. After filtering through the rock, the water enters in an underground lake, before filtering through yet another layer of rock and emerging at Sveti Naum. As a result, the water which enters Ohrid is so pure, you can drink from it. And many do.

After an excellent breakfast at the Restaurant Ostrovo, perched right atop the water, we hired a boat to take us further inland along the lagoon. The entire area is under the protection of UNESCO, and it’s pristine. People are allowed to row out into the lagoon, but nothing may be touched — even fallen trees must be left alone. As a result, the water is so clear that, even at a depth of ten meters, the ground seems near enough to reach down and touch.

Our guide parked the boat at the end of the lagoon, where we had the chance to visit a small church built atop the confluence of three springs. Inside, a circular well has been dug into the ground, where the three waters mingle. Apparently, drinking the mixed water helps women conceive. No idea what it does to men, but I took a sip anyway.

Having returned to Lake Ohrid, we turned our attention to the church of Sveti Naum. It was a Sunday, so it shouldn’t have been surprising to find the place packed. I waited impatiently while a line of believers crossed themselves three times before entering. The air inside the church was so moist and thick with the stench of humanity, I immediately wanted to leave. Of course, the exit was blocked by yet another line of believers, each of whom had to first kiss the wall, then the door, then turn back toward the altar and cross themselves a few more times.

On quieter days, I’m sure the monastery is wonderful. The setting couldn’t be more lovely, and despite the crowds, we were tempted to sit down in its restaurant to enjoy the views over Lake Ohrid. Even if you don’t make it to the church itself, though, a boat ride out onto the springs of Sveti Naum simply should not be missed.

http://youtu.be/oXLcAp0mh4k

Извор: “For 91 days“